A sleek exhibition over black and white will fill the 500 square feet open floor plan of Ornamentum’s Design Miami booth. Black walls and floors create the backdrop, directly in front an almost 17 foot long pedestal- sliced in two by a free-standing wall, is the stage for an impressive group of stunning jewelry works from the USA, Switzerland, the UK, Japan, Netherlands and Germany. Another floating wall at the back of the space is the backdrop for the “Seven Deadly Sins” and an assortment of other rings by German designer Karl Fritsch, while the single side- wall hosts jewelry and sculptural art- objects by the Design Miami favorite Ted Noten of the Netherlands. Welcoming visitors through the opposite (and open) side of the booth are the fascinatingly eerie works (both jewelry and sculpture) in taxidermy by the Dutch duo “Idiots”.
The Dutch Duo Afke Golsteijn and Floris Bakker, working under the pseudonym “Idiots” make jewelry and sculpture out of taxidermy; animals that died naturally, were dead anyhow (meat industry scrap) or from old taxidermy. Comments on the mechanisation of the natural world, materialism, life, death and human desires form the basis for the works by Idiots. In the table-sculpture titled “Quarantine II” to be featured in Miami, red beadwork drips like blood from the beautiful blue bird perched upon an iron limb, a beaded wind-up key protrudes from it’s back.
Following on the heels of a major acquisition of a wall piece of gilded frame, antler and bone, by the Museum of Arts & Design, NYC, Trask has created a stunningly bold neckpiece titled “Acanthus”, following in a similar fashion as the museum piece, one of two major neckpieces to be exhibited in Miami.
Austrian designer Petra Zimmermann embraces jewelry- its symbolism and history as the theme of her work. The iconic form of the gemstone, is the theme for the three bracelets that will be “on stage” with Ornamentum at Design Miami. Gold leaf over acrylic, the outside of the bracelet is also cut with facets reminiscent of the “gems” they are presenting. The gold leaf allows glimpses underneath, giving a sense of age and importance… these are pieces made by hand with careful consideration, not simply objects of “Bling”.
No other jeweler approaches making jewelry (in particular rings) in the same manner as German Karl Fritsch. Working with a childlike playfulness and a love for the self-referential theme of jewelry while simultaneously disregarding all of the accepted notions of what is important in the creation of jewelry, Fritsch boldly pushes the boundaries so far past the point of ridiculousness that they reach the point of profundity.
If ever a ring, which is typically such a personal and sentimental object, can be described as a Tour de Force, Karl Fritsch’s “Seven Deadly Sins” from 2007 is the occasion. Seven barely- wearable rings that are offered only within the context of the full set will be the highlight of Fritsch’s exhibition. Additionally there will be an assortment of about 30 other rings (and one brooch) of various materials and size on display.
One of the most awe-inspiring designers at our last two presentations in Miami has been Ted Noten. No one in the field of contemporary jewelry has pushed the medium so far past its’ definition into the realms of the fine arts and the contemporary design object as has Noten. Even if the pieces are considered a sculpture, Noten almost always leaves hints to his identity as a jeweler within the works, such as the gold ring inside the “Suitcase of a Former Shipbuilder”, a large acrylic work with antique tools cast within from 2003.
A beautiful feature of Ted Noten’s exhibition at Ornamentum’s Design Miami presentation will be select pieces from “Ted Meets Joost”. Working together with Amsterdam’s longest- established fine- jeweler, Atelier Ted Noten has created a number of stunning acrylic jewelry pieces in white, black and clear with diamonds cast within. The works are so elegant and beautiful that one forgets the irony of setting diamonds within acrylic.
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